Am I crazy? (Carbon to Steel)

I'm not asking for you to tell me what bike to get as I know that's a personal decision that's influenced by mutlple factors, more just looking for some feedback and experience from fellow riders. 

About a year and half ago I started eyeing the Niner RLT9 Steel. I got tired of seeing turn offs/side roads while out on my road bike and wanted something with a little bigger tire (I'm a former BMXer and current MTBer at heart). Added to the fact my brother and I had been talking about bikepacking for a long time it seemed like a good fit. In the interest of being thorough I tried a few other bikes as well. When I went to my LBS (exclusive Giant dealer) he suggested I try out the TCX Advanced. At first I wrote it off because I figured a CX bike and it would be too "aggressive" but it was a lot more comfortable than I originally thought. I was surprised and really like the feel. Even though he had to order my size, he offered me a good price because I've bought multiple bikes from this shop (I say that because I want to make it clear he wasn't just trying to push something he had on the floor, he's one of the good ones). I pulled the trigger because the spec list seems great for the money compared to the other options. Thru-axle front/rear, 105 11 speed shifting, hydro disc brakes, and full carbon frame, fork, and D-Fuse seat post. I also told myself that I would give CX racing a try to see if that is something I liked, but that never happened. I got busy with work projects and figured I'd like to stick to my original plan of keeping my cycling hobby noncompetitive. 

Anyway, I did exactly that with the TCX and enjoyed it. I did a lot gravel rides/events and took it bikepacking in Wisconsin and up in the mountains in California. On the gravel rides the bike did great. I would start to feel it a little after mile 50ish, but I figured that was normal. I made do by buying a Arkel Randonneur Rack to work with my mountless carbon frame so I could carry my Banjo Brother rear back with built in panniers, but it meant that I had to carry a substantial amount of gear in a giant hiking backpack. While do-able...it wasn't ideal. 

Now to add to the situation I'm going to be changing work locations that will mean I'll no longer have to ride the train into the office but can commute by bike. It will about 13 miles each way with some mixed terrain for shortcuts. When I started doing the mental check list for bike commuting the thought popped in my head, "Should I sell the TCX and get something better suited for commute/adventure/bikepacking?" I'm not one of those people who feel that I can't do something because of the bike I have, but I also realize bikes are designed with a purpose in mind. 

So I've been poking around back at the RLT9 Steel again along with Specialized AWOL and Sequoias. I don't know why but I've always like the idea of steel bike. I know it's the "cool" thing in some circles but that really doesn't influence me here. I like it because people may differ in what they say about it but pretty much everyone agrees it increases comfort during the ride. Whatever I get I want to make sure I have options as far as racks, mounts, fenders, and bags go. 

With the sale of the TCX and some added funds I'm looking to keep the bike cost at around $2500. That likely means I'll be sacrificing some component levels/options to keep with a steel frame. That doesn't really bother me as I don't mind adding things later down the road.

So what say you? Anyone taken a "step back" from carbon to steel and regretted it? Did it work out for you? 

Generally, I don’t find steel as snappy.  But, if I’m not racing/springing/climbing, who cares?  Its only slow when crossing the finish line.  If not doing that, comfort rules.

Weight wise, I find I can get a similar weight by taking the price savings from carbon and applying it to better components.

chas wrote:

Generally, I don’t find steel as snappy.  But, if I’m not racing/springing/climbing, who cares?  Its only slow when crossing the finish line.  If not doing that, comfort rules.

 

Weight wise, I find I can get a similar weight by taking the price savings from carbon and applying it to better components.

 

I kind of like good steel.  Besides, I think it looks better than some of the garish carbon builds.  

I agree about the comfort vs snappy feel, good point. That's kind of where I'm at right now. The TCX is a great bike all around, no doubt. But you can feel it was built for the purpose of quick acceleration and tight turns found on the course. I never felt like I was at a disadvantage because of it, but I'm sure the comfort will pay off on longer/multi-day rides.

I test rode the Niner RLT9 Steel 2 Star build for a few days last year and really liked it. I've just tested the AWOL Comp and found it to be dare I say...almost better? Tonight or tomorrow I'll probably go give the Sequoia a spin just to get an idea of what their newest offering does that the AWOL doesn't. 

To your point about the garish looks of carbon...one of the things I enjoy most about steel builds are their simplicity. 

ljsmith wrote:I went from carbon to titanium and won't look back.  It is possible to build a carbon frame that is every bit as comfortable as steel or titanium, but it is rare for any company to actually do this because people think they want stiff bikes.  Stiff bikes feel great during a test ride, or for a 1 hour ride, but after a day in the saddle can get tiresome.  If you are a racer then carbon is a great material, much more stiff and responsive.  But for the type of riding the vast majority of people do a steel or titanium bike is much better.  I still have a carbon bike, but its just for fun/fast after work rides, not all day rides.

BrownDog wrote:I have both a carbon and steel bike. Both can fit 40mm tires and can be used as one bike for everything. I recently started using the carbon with compass Bon Jon pass tires as my road with one or two gravel section mixed in bike and my steel bike for Gravel only. I am taking the steel bike to Dirty Kanza if that tell you any thing. It weighs more but it rides great and I could always loose a few lbs. I will most likely sell my carbon bike. The only way I will go away from the steel bike is if I go to a Ti bike. 

bobknh wrote:My $.02: I switched from many years of Trek carbon racing bikes to steel last year. It was partly to acknowledge that my racing days were over; but also I was seduced by Greg Lemond's pitch last year at the TdF for his steel Washoe neo-retro do everything road bike. I wasn't disappointed. The Washoe is a great road bike and except for a 1 lb weight penalty, performs as well or better than any of my old Trek OCLV's ( I won a lot of races, including an age group silver medal at Masters Nat's on my Trek 5900). That being said, the Washoe can barely tolerate a 28 mm tire - and forget anything like my current 35 mm GK's, or 40 mm Ramblers. After experimenting with an entry level Alu DB Haanjo Comp. (not a bad bike for the money) I decided to try a Ritchey steel Swiss Cross Canti. Maybe my memory is just bad; but I can say categorically, the Swiss Cross is the best riding and handling bike I have ever owned. And, Ive I owned and raced many bikes since my first bike race as a 15 year old in 1958. IMHO, if outright performance and racing is your target, and you have no budget restrictions, then the best bikes are carbon. If not, then a steel bike from a good company, or custom builder, is the way to go.

gemper wrote:Hello,  I am new to this forum, but not new to Gravel Grinders.  NO YOU ARE NOT CRAZY! I have ridden the D2R2 about 4 times.  I had been using a mountain bike but I just got a new ride.  A steel Gunnar Fastlane.  I set it up for gravel.  Boyd wheels, 32mm wide Maxis Refuse tires, Avid Juicy Hydraulic Brakes,  Shimano Ultegra with a wide range of gears 52-11 highest to a 36-36 lowest.  I also have Velo Orange fenders with a shock absorbing stem and a Chris King Headset.  It's my dream bike.  My wife said it will be the last one for 10 years.  Here is a picture of it as it sat outside my LBS (Grace Bikes) that put it together.  

Smithhammer wrote:In my opinion, good steel is a far superior material to carbon for an all-around gravel bike. People who are serious racers, and for whom gram-counting actually may matter, are willing to put up with a lot in order to ride as fast as possible for finite periods of suffering...err, I meant "time."  

It's yet another example in the cycling world of what may be of some benefit for top tier racers, but isn't necessarily what makes sense for 98% of riders out there. Yet people feel some sort of pressure to use, or at least thing they are supposed to be using, what the "pros" are. 

Get the steel. Enjoy the ride. 

Thanks everyone for the continues feedback. 

I actually just walked back in from the garage after selling the TCX.

bobknh wrote:
I agree with you when comparing high quality steel and carbon bike frames. I would however, for entry level riders looking into getting their first gravel bike, that some of the hydro formed Alu. alloy bikes like the Diamond Back Haanjo Comp are worth considering. The Alu frame sets can be had for about half the price of a good steel frame set, and that cost savings is reflected in the price of the bike.

It's funny you say that because I did expand my search into some Aluminum bikes. In the midst of all my test rides I've tried: Niner RLT9 Steel, Specialized AWOL, Specialized Sequoia, Salsa Vaya, Diamond Back Haanjo Comp, and finally Giant ToughRoad SLR1. 

I liked them all for different reasons but in the end I ordered the ToughRoad. But before anyone jumps down my throat, I'm not going to run it stock out of the box. I'm having it converted to a drop bar using my 44cm Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebars as well as going to 1x11 SRAM Apex setup. The bike felt light and responsive but due to the sloped top tube it allowed for the composite D-Fuse seat post to have a lot of length for complaince. I liked the fact that I could get all the versatility of for front and rear racks, TONS of tire clearance, and still have a light feeling ride. Even with my changes the cost comes in a lot lower than the other options which means I might have my LBS build me a set of nice wheels in the near future. I'll run the SX-2's that are on there now for the time being but they're a bit hefty so they might go sooner rather than later. I'll probably swap out the 700x50c Giant Sycamore S tires that are on there for a pair of 40c Panaracer Gravel Kings SK's I have in parts bin...they were bought for the TCX a while back.

I'm excited about the new bike...we'll see how it shakes out. 

big_shmoop wrote:

Thanks everyone for the continues feedback. 

I actually just walked back in from the garage after selling the TCX.

It's funny you say that because I did expand my search into some Aluminum bikes. In the midst of all my test rides I've tried: Niner RLT9 Steel, Specialized AWOL, Specialized Sequoia, Salsa Vaya, Diamond Back Haanjo Comp, and finally Giant ToughRoad SLR1. 

I liked them all for different reasons but in the end I ordered the ToughRoad. But before anyone jumps down my throat, I'm not going to run it stock out of the box. I'm having it converted to a drop bar using my 44cm Salsa Cowchipper 2 handlebars as well as going to 1x11 SRAM Apex setup. The bike felt light and responsive but due to the sloped top tube it allowed for the composite D-Fuse seat post to have a lot of length for complaince. I liked the fact that I could get all the versatility of for front and rear racks, TONS of tire clearance, and still have a light feeling ride. Even with my changes the cost comes in a lot lower than the other options which means I might have my LBS build me a set of nice wheels in the near future. I'll run the SX-2's that are on there now for the time being but they're a bit hefty so they might go sooner rather than later. I'll probably swap out the 700x50c Giant Sycamore S tires that are on there for a pair of 40c Panaracer Gravel Kings SK's I have in parts bin...they were bought for the TCX a while back.

I'm excited about the new bike...we'll see how it shakes out. 

oleritter wrote:

Hope it works out for you, guess it is too late to turn back now.  The frame being designed for flat bars, is going to be about 5 cm longer than the equivalent size
road/gravel bike.  Changing to drop bars, it will need a very short stem to get the same fit.  5 cm is about 2".  It will feel very stretched out when your hands are on the hoods or in the drops.

oleritter wrote:

Hope it works out for you, guess it is too late to turn back now.  The frame being designed for flat bars, is going to be about 5 cm longer than the equivalent size
road/gravel bike.  Changing to drop bars, it will need a very short stem to get the same fit.  5 cm is about 2".  It will feel very stretched out when your hands are on the hoods or in the drops.