I'm starting to transition my riding to mostly single speed. Currently I'm riding my Brooks Edition Warbird converted to SS. I really love riding gravel SS, but I want to buy a SS specific build, not a converted SS. It's hard as heck to find a Nature Boy 853 for sale anywhere. So I'm looking for input on the topic. I have my thoughts on carbon since I ride two carbon bikes. Some thoughts on aluminum from my rigid days.
Aluminum:
Pros: Decent weight, takes some vibration out of the ride Cons:
Steel:
Pros: Cons:
Carbon:
Pros: Lighter and stiffer in some cases Cons: Stiffness brings a lot body beating in some cases
I will say this, my aluminum Stans are much smoother over a road than my carbon wheels. It's been years since I rode an aluminum anything, but I do remember my Trek aluminum frame being smoother. It's give and take.
Your Stan's are "smoother" because they tout the softest builds across the entire industry. How deep are your carbon rims you're comparing to? Deeper the rim the stiffer the ride. Aluminum frames generally are stiffer when new then after about 3-4 years start to get softer. Steel is still king when it comes to vibration dampening, then carbon.
\n I say put up a list of possible frames/bikes that you might consider and see if others have some 1st hand info.
\nI’d be interested in how many you come up with.
\n
First - an apology - my hackles rise whenever material - carbon, steel, aluminum, Ti, even wood, enter the discussion of what " is the best". IMHO, these discussions always miss the point -- in considering any choice of component. frame, or bike, the design, and intended use, and buyer budget. Each material has advantages and disadvantages, which skillful manufacturers and engineers can optimize. It isn't the specific material that matters; but rather how well specific product meets your needs and budget.
The intent wasn't to start the debate over. I do like the question posed to me for comparison.
Currently I have my Brooks Edition Warbird setup single speed. Option B in my stable is a 2016 Felt FX. Wheels are 38mm carbon disc.
Options I'm looking into:
Nature Boy 853
Raleigh SSCX
I'll be honest, I love my Warbird setup SS, but I want to have a SS specific ride. So when I want to ride some gears, I just jump on it. Right now if I want to ride my Warbird geared, I have to connect the wires and install the cassette. Not a huge deal, but it gets old!
I'm running a Q-Ring and a slightly worn chain and NO tensioner. It's a little tight in 2 spots, but nothing noticeable while riding. It's temporary until my Raceface arrives. Then I'll be running a Surly tensioner. It has to do with the oval and higher cadence.
PF30/BB30 bottom bracket frames can take an eccentric BB, like Niner RLT for example- Niner recommends this only for their steel and aluminum frames, not carbon.\n
Skidmark, you asked about the tensioner earlier and I stated I would let you know. Today I put my Raceface chainring on with a 40T / 16T cog and no tensioner is needed. I'm changing the gearing for the Epic 150 next sat to a 20T cog, I'll find out Wednesday night if I need to run a tensioner with that gearing. 11000+ feet of climbing over 150 miles... this why I'm going to run 2:1. Of course, someone here has experience with more climbing than flats???
I haven't looked at any of the other replies, but I don't think frame materials matters a whole lot here. My N=1 is having two Raleighs that are essentially identical other than frame material. One is the 2016 carbon fiber RXC and the other is an aluminum 2017 RXS. Same 3T handlebars, same bar tape, same Power saddle, similar carbon fiber seatpost, and similar Stans Crest wheelsets during CX season (or an American Classic set with gravel tires that's been swapped between the bikes).
I absolutely could never tell a difference in ride 'quality' between the two. I raced Cat 3 CX at 195lbs on both with no weaknesses in 'stiffness' or anything related. My longest ride on the RXS is 3 hours while I have nearly doubled that on the RXC and neither one has ever left me feeling more beat up than the other. Once you get your tires (and subsequent pressures) and contact points dialed in, the rest is very minor details. Just find the one that fits your budget.
dangle wrote:I haven't looked at any of the other replies, but I don't think frame materials matters a whole lot here. My N=1 is having two Raleighs that are essentially identical other than frame material. One is the 2016 carbon fiber RXC and the other is an aluminum 2017 RXS. Same 3T handlebars, same bar tape, same Power saddle, similar carbon fiber seatpost, and similar Stans Crest wheelsets during CX season (or an American Classic set with gravel tires that's been swapped between the bikes).
I absolutely could never tell a difference in ride 'quality' between the two. I raced Cat 3 CX at 195lbs on both with no weaknesses in 'stiffness' or anything related. My longest ride on the RXS is 3 hours while I have nearly doubled that on the RXC and neither one has ever left me feeling more beat up than the other. Once you get your tires (and subsequent pressures) and contact points dialed in, the rest is very minor details. Just find the one that fits your budget.
Skldmark wrote: Dangle, have you setup your RXS as a single speed or thought about doing so.
It came as a single speed and has always been run that way. I dumped the eccentric bottom bracket, added a hanger from the RXC and have been using a Surly tensioner instead though.
