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stevef wrote:The FSA is also a good choice, though the chain ring options are somewhat limited. I'm a bit stymied because I want a 44t big ring and a 30-32 small. MTB doubles are typically smaller than that, compact road/cross doubles are usually bigger.
Volsung wrote:Another (more expensive) option is White Industries if you want fully customizable. Can do 1x or a double and small rings go from 24-38 with outer rings going from 38-52.
Volsung wrote:Another (more expensive) option is White Industries if you want fully customizable. Can do 1x or a double and small rings go from 24-38 with outer rings going from 38-52.
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breadfreak wrote:These are way expensive choices. If you need budget sub-compact look at Spa Cycles' TD-2 triple, it's a Sugino XD-2 clone with the improvement of having all five chainring bolts visible. Arms are just £25, chainrings £10 each or so. Just leave the outer ring slot empty! I've got mine set up 44/28 - mated to an 11-32 that's real sub-compact. Square taper means I could get everything as inboard as possible so the 44t is centred over the cassette, the vast majority of the time it's almost a 1x shifting experience. Big-big is a great setting off gear that's easy to throw into as I come to a stop - hugely convenient on a commute. Unbelievably there's no weight penalty compared to an OX-601D! The Spa is just over 700g and the UN-26 bb the LBS had lying in a drawer is about 300g. Q-factor is 156mm on a 113mm (I think) bb spindle - this is where the 5x more pricey Sugino has the upper hand, and only by a centimetre.
bobknh wrote:\n \nWell the RD and cassette don't really 'know' what's going on between the pedals so they're happy. Because the rings are so inboard, in the 28t the FD is actually resting against the seat tube. It's just good fortune that the seat tube's width allowed this to work with the desired chainline. The smaller chainring diameters does mean chain rub against the FD cage in the 28t x smallest-five-sprockets combinations but that's fine by me, there's still a fair number of rub-free redundant combinations. \n \nThere is noticeable tooth wear on the 44t, and I sometimes find specks of aluminium on the rag when I clean the chain. I suspect this has more to do with my regular barbaric crosschaining than any incompatibility. I'm not entirely certain if the Spa's chainrings are specified 11-speed compatible, but I had done some research and found that there's no difference in internal width between different speed chains, so the thickness of the chainrings shouldn't be something to worry about. I guess the tooth profile wasn't designed with 1x in mind - perhaps there are fancier chainrings out there which are more tolerant of crosschaining? \n \nShifting happens when I ask it to without any hesitation. I did have a chain drop problem some time ago but a turn of the FD barrel adjuster and a little civility when shifting big->small made that stop happening - I do want a chain catcher though for peace of mind. Hope this helps!
- Thanks for the post. Very interesting. How well does this set-up work with 11 speed 2x 11 chains and front derailleurs? If I recall, I had some issues when I upgraded my 8 speed triple to a 9 speed 3x gear set years ago on my tandem with a Sugino 3x tandem crankset.
breadfreak wrote: Well the RD and cassette don't really 'know' what's going on between the pedals so they're happy. Because the rings are so inboard, in the 28t the FD is actually resting against the seat tube. It's just good fortune that the seat tube's width allowed this to work with the desired chainline. The smaller chainring diameters does mean chain rub against the FD cage in the 28t x smallest-five-sprockets combinations but that's fine by me, there's still a fair number of rub-free redundant combinations. There is noticeable tooth wear on the 44t, and I sometimes find specks of aluminium on the rag when I clean the chain. I suspect this has more to do with my regular barbaric crosschaining than any incompatibility. I'm not entirely certain if the Spa's chainrings are specified 11-speed compatible, but I had done some research and found that there's no difference in internal width between different speed chains, so the thickness of the chainrings shouldn't be something to worry about. I guess the tooth profile wasn't designed with 1x in mind - perhaps there are fancier chainrings out there which are more tolerant of crosschaining? Shifting happens when I ask it to without any hesitation. I did have a chain drop problem some time ago but a turn of the FD barrel adjuster and a little civility when shifting big->small made that stop happening - I do want a chain catcher though for peace of mind. Hope this helps!
bobknh wrote:\n \nYou lose the ability to minimise chainline and Q that square taper gives you, but I suppose going for something more modern is a fiddle free way to do it
Thanks for the additional info. All my bikes have Shimano Hollowtech II BB's. Here's a possible 3x for conversion to a 2x sub compact:http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-105-5703-triple-10sp-chainset/rp-prod50447?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-US-PLA-PLA-All-All-SE-Shopping-QLB+Test+Product&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsRHeP0hQR_dc%7Cpcrid%7C101472496728%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C179191US . Might have to get shorter chainring bolts or spacers though. I know that Wolftooth makes nice shorter alloy chainring bolts.
Am I missing out on Hollowtech? I noticed no difference in pedalling feel compared to the FSA MegaExo the square taper replacedLewisQC wrote:At this price point, why not FSA SL-K adventure? 329$ and 300g lighter...
https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/fsa-sl-k-modular-adventure-bb386evo-crankset
breadfreak wrote: You lose the ability to minimise chainline and Q that square taper gives you, but I suppose going for something more modern is a fiddle free way to do it
How is the front shifting with these sub compact cranks and standard road front derailleurs that were designed for larger chainrings? Can a braze-on FD go low enough?
HollyBoni wrote:\n \nIt's a bit fiddly to set up with no rub. This is partly because of the curve of the derailer cage as you said, but in my bike's case it's mostly because the rings are set up as inboard as chainstay clearance will allow. That means the geometry of lateral FD movement per shifter click is altered. \n \nBut it's workable. The derailer is brought down, its angle relative to the chain is played with and the barrel adjuster is operated with finesse. I can't eliminate rub in the small x smallest-5-or-so-sprockets combinations but those are well redundant so I don't mind. Small x big, big x big, and big x small can just about be set up rub free. I have no experience with braze ons but I don't imagine they offer so much room for experimentation - correct me if I'm wrong. \n \nThe shifting itself works just fine! For a while it would throw the chain off the small ring but a turn of the adjuster sent that problem away. For the most part I don't have to think about my gears, I click the levers and the shifts happen. And it's wonderful to spend 90% of the time in the big ring.How is the front shifting with these sub compact cranks and standard road front derailleurs that were designed for larger chainrings? Can a braze-on FD go low enough?
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HollyBoni wrote:That sounds great! A 46-30 with an 11spd 11-36 would be perfect for me I think. I hope there are going to be more options from the bigger manufacturers (maybe even with optimzed FDs) for non astronomical prices.\n \nWell it's definitely an improvement over the constant front shifting and silly-high gearing I had with the original 50/34! But yeah I'd love to see the manufacturers invest in these real sub-compact setups and do away with the fiddling and the uncertainty. SRAM wants us to believe a 10-42 is a fantastic way to ride, but even 11-32 feels to me like it's approaching the limit of acceptable jumps between gears. \n \nMake that 46/30 x 11-36 happen
Oh and 2x clutch RDs that are compatible with brifters from the factory, thanks!
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