Sram 11-36 compatibility

Sorry if this has been answered before. Has anyone run a Sram 1130 (or1170) 11-36 cassette with a Shimano 105 GS derailleur? Sram says it designed the 11-36 for its 1X11 CX groups. An internet search gave me mixed messages on compatibility. I know that the IRD 11-36  cassette is supposed to work well with Shimano, but it costs three times as much as the Sram.

I'm running a SRAM 11-36 on my Haanjo Comp with a 105 medium cage derailleur with excellent shifting. I'm using a Wolftooth Road link though, and a 46/36 crankset. You may have to muck with the "b-screw", and a longer chain, to make everything work smoothly. I've been mixing and matching SRAM, Shimano, and IRD 11 speed components- even SRAM eTap- with good results on several bikes. Don't forget, as JOM at Gravel Cyclist says, "the b-screw is your friend". I also only use SRAM 11-speed chains. I've found that in 11-speed space, cogsets, chains, and chainrings are very compatible between brands.

Yesterday I put a SRAM 11-36T on my Shimano Di2 ultegra setup.  I also have a 46/30T WI crank, so my lowest gear is now quite low.  It works great on the stand.  All I had to do was crank down on the B-screw.  I started with a new Shimano chain, and for this particular setup, removed 2 links from what came in the box.  I am about to go test it out on some steep gravel fire-roads.

One thing I did notice is multi-shifts with Di2 were harsher.  However, I am also experimenting with paraffin for the first time, so it could be the chain is stiff from that.

bobknh wrote:I'm running a SRAM 11-36 on my Haanjo Comp with a 105 medium cage derailleur with excellent shifting. I'm using a Wolftooth Road link though, and a 46/36 crankset. You may have to muck with the "b-screw", and a longer chain, to make everything work smoothly. I've been mixing and matching SRAM, Shimano, and IRD 11 speed components- even SRAM eTap- with good results on several bikes. Don't forget, as JOM at Gravel Cyclist says, "the b-screw is your friend". I also only use SRAM 11-speed chains. I've found that in 11-speed space, cogsets, chains, and chainrings are very compatible between brands.

I have the 11 x 36 installed on my 2016 Raleigh 2016 Tamland(Shimano 105)  1 The LBS put on the Wolftooth Road link and a new chain.

Zman

bobknh wrote:I'm running a SRAM 11-36 on my Haanjo Comp with a 105 medium cage derailleur with excellent shifting. I'm using a Wolftooth Road link though, and a 46/36 crankset. You may have to muck with the "b-screw", and a longer chain, to make everything work smoothly. I've been mixing and matching SRAM, Shimano, and IRD 11 speed components- even SRAM eTap- with good results on several bikes. Don't forget, as JOM at Gravel Cyclist says, "the b-screw is your friend". I also only use SRAM 11-speed chains. I've found that in 11-speed space, cogsets, chains, and chainrings are very compatible between brands.

I have the 11 x 36 installed on my 2016 Raleigh 2016 Tamland(Shimano 105 RD 5800)  1 The LBS put on the Wolftooth Road link and a new chain.

Zman

Been running the 11-36 for over a year with the shimano 105 rear derailleur. No probs. I believe its the 1170.

pauley wrote:Sorry if this has been answered before. Has anyone run a Sram 1130 (or1170) 11-36 cassette with a Shimano 105 GS derailleur? Sram says it designed the 11-36 for its 1X11 CX groups. An internet search gave me mixed messages on compatibility. I know that the IRD 11-36  cassette is supposed to work well with Shimano, but it costs three times as much as the Sram.

"Officially" it's incompatible. It will work on some bikes though. I got it to work with both an Ultegra and a 105 on two different bikes. I ended up buying the $20 Roadlink and using an 11-40 cassette for one bike and liked it much better.

It *may* work, but you won't get a solid 'yes' answer from the internet alone. It will for sure work if you combine it with a Roadlink.

There's no real difference between the SRAM and IRD 11-36 cassettes as far as size goes. 11-36 SRAM 1130 vs. 11-36 SRAM 1170 vs. 11-36 IRD is all the same thing as far as your rear derailleur is concerned.

Thanks for all the info in responses. The reason I asked is I got a Jamis Renegade a couple months ago. Ended up having the LBS where I bought it put on an IRD 11-36 without a Road Link. The shifting was slightly clunky as compared to when I test rode the bike with the original 11-32, though it has become smoother as the drive train has worn in. But there hasn't ever been a problem accessing all the gears. When this cassette wears out I think I'll go with the Sram cassette since it is considerably cheaper than IRD. And maybe think about a Road Link to make shifting smoother.

pauley wrote:Thanks for all the info in responses. The reason I asked is I got a Jamis Renegade a couple months ago. Ended up having the LBS where I bought it put on an IRD 11-36 without a Road Link. The shifting was slightly clunky as compared to when I test rode the bike with the original 11-32, though it has become smoother as the drive train has worn in. But there hasn't ever been a problem accessing all the gears. When this cassette wears out I think I'll go with the Sram cassette since it is considerably cheaper than IRD. And maybe think about a Road Link to make shifting smoother.

pauley I kind of had the same experience when I had the 11-36 put on my Raleigh Tamland 1. I think/not sure that it causes it to shift more aggressive. I took it out for a test ride and then went back and had the LBS dial it back some.

Zman

pauley wrote:Thanks for all the info in responses. The reason I asked is I got a Jamis Renegade a couple months ago. Ended up having the LBS where I bought it put on an IRD 11-36 without a Road Link. The shifting was slightly clunky as compared to when I test rode the bike with the original 11-32, though it has become smoother as the drive train has worn in. But there hasn't ever been a problem accessing all the gears. When this cassette wears out I think I'll go with the Sram cassette since it is considerably cheaper than IRD. And maybe think about a Road Link to make shifting smoother.

\n \nJust buy the roadlink. The shifting will be much better. The cassette will take a looong time to wear out.

dangle wrote: Just buy the roadlink. The shifting will be much better. The cassette will take a looong time to wear out.

Yes - larger cassette cogs will reduce drivetrain wear.

For a given gear ratio... say you're cruising along in your 34t chainring and 19t cog.
This gives a ration of 1.78. So every rotation of the crank will result in 1.78 rotations of the rear wheel.

The 50t chainring and 28t chainring also happens to give a 1.78 gear ratio.  So if you have the same cadence you'll be going the same speed.

Because the 50t chainring is 47% larger than the 34t chainring there is 47% LESS pulling force on the chain which means there is 47% less force on the cassette cogs AND there are 47% more teeth on both the crankset and cassette.   So the load is spread across more teeth and everything wears out slooooower. 

That said - a worn out chain will trash any cassette so get a chain gauge and use it! 

Cheers,
Greg

Shimano 105 5800 2x11 speed drivetrain on a Raleigh Roker Comp. The crankset is a Shimano CX50, the 36 inner chainring has been replaced with a TA 33t. The 11-32 cassette has been replaced with a Sram PG-1130 11-36. I was able to change the chainring and cassette without any other modifications. \n\n\n\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9q4WpaqwgI&feature=youtu.be

Standard spec on a Specialized Sequoia Elite is a Shimano 105 GS RD with a Sunrace 11-36 11 sp cassette.