Center Lock Discs, small amount of play causes rattling sound

I'm new to cl discs. I installed a set and noticed they have a a little fore & aft play, maybe a millimeter? They work well but I noticed a little rattle when I ride. Is this normal?

Not at all. They should get as much torque as a cassette or most cranksets when installing.

What Dangle said.  40 n-m of torque (29 to 30 ft-lb).  Be sure that thin metal washer is installed under the locking ring.  

Rocking wrote: Be sure that thin metal washer is installed under the locking ring.  

Not all lockrings have that washer. DT Swiss lockrings do not. I don't think that washer is even possible to remove from lockrings anyhow.

Thanks for the replies. The ring is tight. I did not receive a washer, but all my parts were sourced from ebay. I did receive an extra set of lock rings. I'll check to see if they have an attached wave washer.

OK, the rattling is not because of the lock-ring or the washer. The disc 'hub' fit is loose. The tooth engagement is not super tight, I get the same amount of play if the lock-ring is on or off. It is much less than the millimetre I stated earlier but there is still play. 

Add in a small 1mm or less spacer?

I'm not explaining it well. The disc is tight, meaning in a top down view there is not any play left to right. The play is in the interface of the 'teeth'. It may be a tolerance issue where the splines on the hub are on the small side while the opening on the rotor is on the large side. I'm not going to worry about it. They worked fine for over 100 miles. I appreciate all the input.

Alex_C wrote:I'm not explaining it well. The disc is tight, meaning in a top down view there is not any play left to right. The play is in the interface of the 'teeth'. It may be a tolerance issue where the splines on the hub are on the small side while the opening on the rotor is on the large side. I'm not going to worry about it. They worked fine for over 100 miles. I appreciate all the input.

Native CL rotors or 6-bolt rotors with CL adapters?

If the latter, are the adapters name brand or no-name?

I use Shimano and DT Swiss adaptors and have never had a problem. They cost more, but worth it.

Alex_C wrote:Avid G3CL rotors, they have Shimano centers. WTB i23 KOM rims. All of these items were Ebay finds. No adapters were needed.

the rims don’t matter. The hubs do. As do the lock rings

Alex_C wrote:Avid G3CL rotors, they have Shimano centers. WTB i23 KOM rims. All of these items were Ebay finds. No adapters were needed.

Did these “ebay finds” come from China?  I ask because there are a lot of cheap parts available on eBay from China that are questionable.  If so they could be knockoffs or QC rejects with poor tolerances.

You can go to November bicycles website and order 0.25mm rotor spacers. It might help fill up any space causing some of the play when locked down. Cheap,  easy fix

shiggy wrote:
the rims don’t matter. The hubs do. As do the lock rings

I should've said wheelset.  I'm not sure the brand of hubs, I assumed that WTB made the wheelset, but I could be mistaken. The rotors have a Shimano spider, the lockring is also Shimano. These ebay finds were all used and looked in good condition.

kshillz101 wrote:You can go to November bicycles website and order 0.25mm rotor spacers. It might help fill up any space causing some of the play when locked down. Cheap,  easy fix

I don't believe it to be a spacer issue, the teeth engage the splines loosely. For sh!ts and giggles, I'll pop a washer in to see if that helps.

It is a tolerance issue between the teeth and the splines.
This video describes the exact problem I have: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCy10vDH9Po

It isn't the spline/teeth interface, it is the rivets holding the rotor to the spider. I just need to buy new rotors and all will be well.