Monster Cross vs. Gravel Specific Bike

Noonievut wrote:If I wanted only two ‘arrows in the quiver’ and I already have a road bike, I’m wondering if something that is as far from road (but still drop bar) is better than something closer to road.

I had never really paid much attention to monster cross bikes, thinking I wanted something faster and more nimble but able to tackle some gravel and mixed surface rides (you know, where you’re still fairly fast on pavement and ‘get by’ on gravel with 35’s). But on the gravel I ride, while fairly smooth, I still get tossed around a bit. I feel like I’m suffering unnecessarily with cross geometry and 33 tires. I’m now thinking that something that can handle 42-55ish would make more sense. And something that when descending over bunny terrain would offer more comfort and control.

Others go through this process and if so, where did you end up?

I chose a frame that could take 650b x 2.2 or 700x45+. Chainstay 430mm. Head tube angle 71.5. I felt this would still ride fairly nimble as the frame would replace my roadbike with 32mm tyres. 

At one 650b extreme a lightweight Thunder Burt is pretty quick on mild gravel and for me it handles the chunky stuff very well. That diameter doesn't feel at all too large/heavy when rolling. I suppose that size tyre could be labelled 'monstercross'. Being able to drop the tyre pressure down on a fatter tyre feels very cushy over the bumps.

The thing is though I haven't tried a 700c wheel yet on the build. (I also ride a slick 650b x 42 and 48). 
What I don't like about the 42 is I feel the wheel is too small when you start rolling over rougher gravel. The 48 in my mind feels borderline. That's the 'roll-over' feel for me, at 5'9.5".

So I'm considering a lightweight 700x35 (approx the same diameter as 650b x 2.1) for mixed rides with mild gravel. 

I'm kind of wary that something like a 700x45 will feel too big/cumbersome in its rolling diameter feel overall. 

Something like a Moots Baxter; that's what I'd label a true 700c monstercross. 

One of those newer-style Chinese/re-branded frames with the short/dropped 420mm chainstay would be a candidate to build up a light very nimble 650b x 2.1/2.2 bike, if you were ok with a low front end. e.g. https://www.edgesportsuk.com/store/edge-design-gravel-carbon-frame-set.html

Noonievut wrote:The Lynskey is nice but over my budget. I’m leaning toward something with clearance for at least 45mm, probably steel to save $, Rival 1x though I could do a double, hydraulic discs. Would be great if it’s got the ideal tires stock...something that rolls well on pavement but optimized for gravel. This parts always tricky.

Right now I’m scanning the bikes available, while I have a custom steel frame in the back of my mind.

ccand51997 wrote:I am pretty new to this sort of mixed-surface riding, but with two recent events under my belt, I'll offer some observations.  The first was a 65 road/35 trail/fireroad event.  I had put together a bike using my daughters cheap hybrid and a lot of spare parts I have in my garage, plus a set of new tires (40mm Nano in front, 36 G-One allround back).  The first portion was on smooth roads and while I did not feel slow, it was definitely not my road bike.  Then during the off-road portions it felt great.  I passed guys on downhills that opted more to the 28-32 mm tire range.  Since then I have experimented with tire pressures down to 25psi front/30 rear and it really glides through the bumps pretty well without feeling slow on pavement. (I actually did some limited power meter testing and could not tease out any difference in speed between 30 and 50 psi for those tires.) 

Then I attempted a race last week that was labeled as a 'fire road 100K.'  There were a lot of mtbs and dudes with monster cross 2.2 tire bikes so I wondered a bit at the start.  Through the first paved section and then gravel roads, I was right at home. Onto the first climb and I was overgeared with a 30x34 and searching for traction on some sections in the early three or four miles.  A number of guys with mtbs passed me looking smooth and easy over the bumps with plenty of low gears.  The top of the mountain had fairly nice roads and I was cruising pretty fast until the first of two big downhills.  Between my aero/road position, my cheap v-brakes and using road levers with insufficient pull, I found myself hanging on for dear life.  It was not fun at all.  I made it down and then rode the flats and gradual climbs without any bike issues.  The last big downhill started paved and then turned onto gravel and was again a nightmare with my position/breaking issues.  Added in, my front tire went flat.  It is not a tubeless specific rim, though the tire is, and the extremity of the rough roads, rocks and hard braking burped all the air out of the tire.  It did not unseal, thankfully, so I stopped and put enough air in to finish the ride, but it was scary.  

That second ride was probably 80/20 off-road/road.  If your gravel is not mountainous or super-rough then 35-40mm tires are probably sufficient.  All my stuff has climbing in it, so from now on I am going to lean towards 2.2 tires if the event does not have sufficient pavement.  I also have a fat bike that I converted to monster cross with drop bars and 29er wheels that I could have ridden, and I think it would have been a much better choice for the second ride.  The 2.2s at 25psi roll over stuff much more smoothly and would have given me a lot better control and comfort.  

If your road bike can handle the 32-35s then I would definitely go for something that can take at least 2.2 tires.  The right ones (I am using Conti raceking protections, but want to try Schwalve G-Ones as well) will roll pretty well on pavement and provide a nice ride on gravel.  If you do your own wrenching, you can put a bike like that together from a mtb by adding drop bars and it will do the job 95 percent as well as the bikes they are advertising as "gravel."