The head tube angle is an interesting question, if the gravel geometry isn't a copy of endurance / CX bike, we see some manufacturer get inspired by MTB geometry with a high trail (compensated by the stem lenght) with slack head tube. For example, the Lauf Tru Grit, 70,5°, good reviews on the geo. Also Kona Rove 70,5°/71,5°, Scott Speedster 70,5°/71°, Kinesis Tripster ATR 70,5°.
Edit: and if you want to adapt the trail at your practice / tire / ground, there is the Cane Creek Angleset headset, 0,5 to 1,5°: http://www.canecreek.com/product/angleset/
jeanjacques wrote:The head tube angle is an interesting question, if the gravel geometry isn't a copy of endurance / CX bike, we see some manufacturer get inspired by MTB geometry with a high trail (compensated by the stem lenght) with slack head tube. For example, the Lauf Tru Grit, 70,5°, good reviews on the geo. Also Kona Rove 70,5°/71,5°, Scott Speedster 70,5°/71°, Kinesis Tripster ATR 70,5°.
Edit: and if you want to adapt the trail at your practice / tire / ground, there is the Cane Creek Angleset headset, 0,5 to 1,5°: http://www.canecreek.com/product/angleset/
Hmmm. My bike has short trail (steep head tube) with a short stem (inspired by MTB geometry).
Looks like your project is coming together nicely. I really like to avoid toe overlap on gravel bikes simply cuz there are times I'm going really slowly and making sharp turns (yeah the perfect situation for touching the front tire). That's one of the big advantages my Raleigh Roker has over my Dean CX bike.
I'll have to look into the Campy in-line cable adjusters. I'm not a big fan of the SRAM in-line adjusters simply because there isn't a lot of range. Just one man's opinion...
DrWelby - Thanks so much for your thoughts. Most of the geometry is copied from various bikes I like in my size. Each has a slight variation in chainstay length, but apart from the Routte 45 (450mm) and the Tripster ATR (440mm), most are just either side of the 430mm that I'm going to spec. The maker (Walty) uses one of the fancy chainstay yolks to achieve the 68mm shell size with wide tyres and a mid-compact double. The toe overlap thing isn't really a problem, until it is. I've always lived with it, but it has bucked me off or made for a hairy situation on more than one occasion. I don't really want to fiddle too much with trusted geo just to fix that problem. Currently my thoughts are just to stick with the 71.5deg angle and settle for a little less (but still higher than neutral) fork trail and the negligible amount less flop. As you say, I could change the HT angle to match the trail but then I'd have to deal with extra flop which won't be the best when I do have front weight (fork bottles). I prefer to rear weight my bike (when necessary) so the flop is probably less of an issue. I do have bags on the front of course but it's not the bulk of the weight. My sizing is based on stack and reach (Reach ~380 & stack ~570). The ETT stuff is just convenient when the seat tube angle is consistent (which it is for most smaller frames). I'm interested to know why you think I'm too far forward. Since reading your comment I've been moving back on the saddle at various times to test it. There is a definite point where it is clear I'm too far back but for the most part I'm comfortable and efficient across the whole length of the saddle. I like to move around on my saddles a lot anyway. When doing efforts or TTing on my road bike I'm often way up over the BB and other times I like to sit way back and grip the drops right on the ends.
JeanJaques - It's interesting you mention the Tripster ATR. I actually have a brand new size 54cm frame just sitting here that I bought during a sale. This whole thing has been spurred on by that particular frame just not being quite right.
NoCoGreg - All of my shoes have wear marks on the toes from overlap. It's only ever really been a problem when stopping or slowing at traffic. Other than that I don't notice it. I don't think Campagnolo inline adjusters are anything too special. It's just that they have a really fine threading/adjustment and a wide range. The spring inside also has notches that provide a kind of positive stop. It prevents them from unwinding.
I'm not too far off now. I have a few component questions that I might put in a different post in the more appropriate topic area.
plantbasedpedaller wrote: JeanJaques - It's interesting you mention the Tripster ATR. I actually have a brand new size 54cm frame just sitting here that I bought during a sale. This whole thing has been spurred on by that particular frame just not being quite right.
V1 or V2 ? And did you ride it ? The V1 is one of the lightest ti gravel frame due to butted tube (even on custom frame, it's not common).
V1 or V2 ? And did you ride it ? The V1 is one of the lightest ti gravel frame due to butted tube (even on custom frame, it's not common).
It's the V2. I didn't even set it up. I unwrapped the frame, put a seatpost in it, and sat it on a set of rims. It just seemed too big, and the size down seemed too small. The seatpost only had about 4" of post showing (which has no bearing on anything but just looks odd to me). It also looked like I would need to use about a 70mm stem which seemed far too short. The frame is still sitting there (around 12months) waiting for me to eventually move it on. It has almost everything that I want and by all reviews is a great frame. I'm just not in love with it. I can't exactly pin down why.
For the stem, and it's helpful for your first question on this thread, the geometry of the ATR have a long top tube and it have to match with a short stem. The idea is to have the stability and toe clearance of a slack head tube (high trail) but get back responsiveness by this short stem (MTB inspired geometry). For the seatpost, it's normal to have it shorter because of the low BB but normally it's higher on the V2 and it don't have to be as short as you describe. Sure you put it right ? With a low BB it's a good idea to put short crank and 165mm it's plenty enough: ground and toe clearance, saddle little higher, better hip mouvement, more easy to get low on the drop without have knee on the chest, etc.
