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PDKL45 wrote:\n \nMy rule of thumb for gearing is you should spend most of your time in the middle of the cassette. Have yet to see any 1x setup that will do this for me while retaining the low range I want. \n44/30x11-34 is perfect for me. \nGood range. \nGood chain lines (9-sp). \nNo dropped chains. \n5000miles on the first chain and the rings and cassettes are fine (cassettes used much longer).
This is a really good comment, one that I agree with entirely. I was skeptical of 1x10 and 1x11 drivetrains until I started playing around with the HTML Gear Calculator. I currently have a Specialized AWOL with Sora and Deore components (30-39-50/12-36 9-speed), which are not particularly high end, but they get the job done. I was kinda shocked to realize that with a narrow-wide Raceface/Wolftooth 38T chainring and a Sunrace 11-46 11-speed cassette (There's also a Deore XT available now) I would only lose about one and a half gears off the top of my current range, and I never really ride up there, except on some downhills and I really wouldn't miss it, as gravity is working for me there.
As stated above, you see a lot of guys going on about spinning out on various forums, but it seems sort of misleading to me. I commonly spin on the 50T ring in the middle of my cassette, basically the same as spinning on the 38T ring on the first two gears. I would probably go to a 1x10 or 1x11 set up tomorrow, if I didn't have a perfectly adequate road triple/mountain cassette-derailleur set up and bills to pay.
shiggy wrote: My rule of thumb for gearing is you should spend most of your time in the middle of the cassette. Have yet to see any 1x setup that will do this for me while retaining the low range I want. 44/30x11-34 is perfect for me. Good range. Good chain lines (9-sp). No dropped chains. 5000miles on the first chain and the rings and cassettes are fine (cassettes used much longer).
What's the crankset? Is it CX or MTB?
PDKL45 wrote:\nWhite Industries VBDWhat's the crankset? Is it CX or MTB?
shiggy wrote: White Industries VBD
That makes sense, those White Industries cranksets are awesome, especially the modular inner rings. I think FSA is coming out with a similar crankset, which I may look into in the future. I have been utterly obsessed with drivetrains for the last year, but my new 12-36T cassette has calmed me down a little for now.
PDKL45 wrote:\nI ran 44/30x11-36 for a bikepacking trip. The long cage 105 RD worked just fine.That makes sense, those White Industries cranksets are awesome, especially the modular inner rings. I think FSA is coming out with a similar crankset, which I may look into in the future. I have been utterly obsessed with drivetrains for the last year, but my new 12-36T cassette has calmed me down a little for now.
cellery wrote:If one is riding rough gravel roads, chop, singletrack and such only in the outer half of a 38x10-42, then you are a hard-man indeed. Most of my time spent between 19-22mph is in the high-middle of the casette. My bike is now two months old and I have only maybe 4 actual shifts into the 38x10. There is also this misconception about 1X I read all the time from people who have never tried it, that the same type of cross-chaining wear occurs as happens with a 2X... 1X systems place chainline squarely in the middle of the casette; unless you ride always at 3mph or 32mph then you are going to spend the vast majority somewhere in cogs 3-7. This is true if your average speed is 13 or 16 or 19. All of my bikes exhibit the most wear on the middle cogs, not the outboard ones. These new systems were designed all around the necessaity of cross-chaining and is really not an issue if you replace your chain as per stretch guidelines. I'm saying this as a guy with no less than four bikes running 1X - some purpose built and some self-converted.\nThe chainring maybe centered on the cassette, but a 11/12sp cassette is also wider than a 8/9/10sp cassette (more chain angle), and a double crankset that has a proper chainline (centered) has the small ring further inboard and big ring further outboard than 1x, which gives less chain angle small/large cogs and big/small cogs. \nLess chain angle = less wear to chain and cogs/rings, and makes chain drops less likely. Around here I see dropped chains with 1x11 even with w/n rings.
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