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In order to run a full size bottle and a frame bag, bike companies expect us to make too many modifications. On my Lynskey GR270 I have a Shimano di2 battery adapter (think wolftooth b-rad before those were a thing) AND a King Cage lowered version. This effectively lowers my bottle cage almost 3 inches. 
SWGraveler wrote:As a Shimano devotee, I think your issues are Campy related..
No need to project your frustration of not being able to see a pedal reflection in the crank arm. We should join forces and look down on Sram users.
Honestly I hadn't thought about having to reach too far, but I have monkey arms. Is that the real reasoning behind it? I mainly use the down tube one and the seat tube/under the down tube are my backups.
The “standard” for bottle bosses has always had them high, likely to ensure FD/chainring clearance. It is WAY too generous.
I set mine low enough that the ST/DT bottles nearly rub, which also gives room for a third cage on the DT inside the frame.
Volsung wrote:
No need to project your frustration of not being able to see a pedal reflection in the crank arm. We should join forces and look down on Sram users.
Look down? I typically wince and look away when I see(the horror!) Sram..
I sometimes ask if they need to buy a 2032 battery; for $5. I keep a few on me as I'm opportunistic that way.
There is no better way to ruin the look and aesthetic of a nice bike frame than putting a bottle cage there.
😮
I'm fighting myself with this first world problem.
Only titanium Wolf Tooth bottle cages available but they have a seemingly good design for fitment. Silca has what might be the best design but titanium only. King cages have a lowered stainless model with no adjustment and maybe too low plus they're closing for vacation. I don't like those AL bars that adjust them. Add that I like cages to match.
I like covered top bottles and have put thought to using them while riding. I might not disagree with Moots' placement. On matching, I don't think I need titanium cages to match the Moots titanium frame. I didn't really get the bike for it being made of titanium as much as for fit and the fantastic characteristics it has.
What makes this a total first world problem is the water bottle and frame bag compatibility.
Building up my wife's bike I used a generic B-rad clone (50mm vs 32 lowering) and Morse cages. Bottles aren't hitting the frame but I may have to raise it 5mm. I don't think a medium frame bag will fit in there with 1L Bottles, but a standard large 24 or 26 oz should fit.mtbnut87 wrote:@Volsung how do you like those tires on a gravel bike??? I use the 2.4 and 2.6 on my MTB.... just curious what they're like on gravel, sometimes pavement.
I found plenty enough happiness with the standard stainless King lowering cage as much as I admire the Silca and other cages I've seen. I paid plenty of premium for my Moots Routt 45 where I got plenty back vs super expensive cages. I appreciate but did not like the mounts that sit between frame and cages.
For the tires side comments, having just thrown out the worn out Race Kings and some fast older Schwalbe MTB tires I'm still really firm that friends only buy the 48-50 Rene Hearse knobbies but the Clement/Donnley MSO are really good via the casing standing up to abuse and sealing. The important thing in this is I encounter slop, mud and mess with gravel/tour/commute that doesn't happen with most or ethical MTB riding. The RH knobby tires don't pack up and are super predicable compared to the fast MTB tires that are for NASCAR on dirt and grass.
2 pairs, different bikes, lots of miles of RH knobby against the others are pretty convincing. My only knock on the RH stuff is tan walls and being a boomer I've had enough stupid looking 1970s and retro crap in my life.
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