Norco Search XR A1 2020 REVIEWS?????

I’ve got a 2019 carbon with GRX810 2x that I built, posted in this forum. Don’t know much about the difference between the alloy and carbon models but will help if I can...

I did look at the spec of that link. Pretty comparable to my bike. First thing I’d do with that bike would be to replace the seat post with a flexing carbon one or maybe even a redshift. Second would be a suspension stem or carbon bars... I hate alloy bars. Make sure to set the tires up tubeless. 

Pipeliner wrote:I’ve got a 2019 carbon with GRX810 2x that I built, posted in this forum. Don’t know much about the difference between the alloy and carbon models but will help if I can...

I did look at the spec of that link. Pretty comparable to my bike. First thing I’d do with that bike would be to replace the seat post with a flexing carbon one or maybe even a redshift. Second would be a suspension stem or carbon bars... I hate alloy bars. Make sure to set the tires up tubeless. 

Will see how I go first before I consider these upgrades. Gives me some food for thought though. I have been putting up with a Giant Boulder SE 2001 for 19 years and while it has front suspension it is stiff as hell now.

My roads around me are not horendous. The worst are sections on bitumen that have been patched and some areas of rail trails that have erosion.

Once I have picked it up and take it on the worst sections of road I will see how much shock I get then factor your tips in. No need spending big bucks on upgrades like these if the shock factor is only 10% of my ride.

The tire clearance is great so you can go up to 45mm wide with the wheels you have. More air volume and lower pressure makes a huge difference in ride quality too. If you want a carbon seat post I've got a Chiner cheapo that I'd send you for 15 bucks. Rides much better than aluminum.

Pipeliner wrote:The tire clearance is great so you can go up to 45mm wide with the wheels you have. More air volume and lower pressure makes a huge difference in ride quality too. If you want a carbon seat post I've got a Chiner cheapo that I'd send you for 15 bucks. Rides much better than aluminum.

Maybe he's just making an assumption but my local bike shop owner, who has the same bike said i'd need 27.5 wheels to fit 45's.

Is he wrong?

Norco's website says 2020 aluminum will take 40mm 700c or 51mm 650b.

Steel and carbon models take 45mm 700c.

Sorry, I assumed the alloy bike would have the same clearance.

Pipeliner wrote:Sorry, I assumed the alloy bike would have the same clearance.

All good mate. I will just see how the standard 38mm tyres go to start with. I am not sold on your suggestion of shock absorbing bars/seat post but I do like the look of the redshift for the bars. Maybe down the track I will get that as reviews for it seem very positive.

What do you suggest on pedals? I tried cleats recently and am tossing up between them with gravel shoes or flats with toe clips. I will be doing mostly old train track trails that have been converted in Victoria. Pretty flat with sand/clay over crushed bluestone.

I will be riding to work now and then but that is on bitumen with some patchy pothole filled sections at worst.

Most gravel riders use SPD mountain bike clips or egg beaters. Many gravel rides involve some walking.

You see a few folks on flats, I'm not a fan. You can get the ones with the clips and flats in one pedal, kind of a compromise for both shoe types.

 

Conan wrote: 

I do wan't this one but currently my wife would kill me. Would be at least an extra 350 including shoes and I think the $2400 on the bike is a lot for us. Especially during these economic times. Going to have to get a simple set of pedals with toe straps. Maybe once my tax return comes in I might be able to convince her.

You don't need toe clips.  Just get some composite flat pedals and ride with decent flat shoes from Five-Ten or Ride Concepts.
  
   

smoothmoose wrote:You don't need toe clips.  Just get some composite flat pedals and ride with decent flat shoes from Five-Ten or Ride Concepts.
  
   

I would go that way but I want to be able to pull up on climbs.

I have a Norco Search XR, 2018 steel model. Love it. I'm really digging the candy apple red of your Search. Nice. Norco sucks when it comes to posted pictures of their bikes.

You don't need to spend money for the XTR trail pedals, I have the XT version and paid about US$60 for them from Jenson. You could easily get by with the SLX version for $54
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-SLX-Trail-PD-M530-Pedals

All you really need though is something like this (which i have):
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-PD-M540-SPD-Pedals
Or these: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-pd-m530-mtb-spd-pedal
or the cheaper under US$50 520 
https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-PD-M520-SPD-Pedals
My buddy uses these M520 pedals on his Disc Trucker which he rides everywhere, 3,000-4,000 miles a year. He has no car, so it's his daily commuter rain or shine, and on touring/gravel day ride trips as well.

One thing of note... you really can't go wrong with Shimano SPD pedals. Generally, they last and last.

Flats are nice when carrying a heavy load. Faster to put your foot down when carrying a heavy load, and when not, simplifies things quite a bit for some. The Race Face Chesters that @smoothmoose showed are fantastic. They grip so well, i have trouble moving my foot on the platform while riding and i swear, at times they seem to offer something even on the up swing.

It seems the alloy version of the Search may not offer as big tire capacity as the steel XR. I'm running 650b x 2.1 Thunder Burts now. and Love them.

I HAVE been using the RedShift stem and I'm glad I got it, though I wish I could try a shorter version than my 11cm.

Sorry I cannot point you to any online review of your alloy Search XR

eric/fresno, ca.

Roskam wrote:

I would go that way but I want to be able to pull up on climbs.

Pulling up on clipped in pedals is way overrated. I've gone back and forth on both type of pedals for years, with my last stint on clipped in ending month ago on my gravel bike and now I am flat pedals on all my bikes.

Short answer is pulling up on the pedal engages you hip flexor muscles as much as your hamstrings - highly inefficient.  While on a nice flat pedal platform I can engage BOTH my quads and hamstrings, and can bias between one or the other just by shifting my foot position by an inch or so.

Try this at home if you can.  Take a 10-20lb dumbbell - hold onto it in your hand or put on your shoulder - then squat...you can squat for days - or at least 20 reps, before you feel a little bit of burn.  You are engaging your powerful quads and hamstrings used in the downstroke.  Now, take the same dumbbell and tie it to your foot/ankle and pull-up just like you would on an upward pedal stoke.  Tell me how much HARDER this is - you maybe able to do 3-4 reps and want to stop.  You are so much less energy efficient when pulling up on the pedals.  Basically you're burning out muscles while generating relatively less Watts compared to the downstroke.  It makes more sense to conserve and return energy on the upstroke (still with a smooth stroke), but put down the power on the down stroke.

That's basically what @epzamora is saying below.  With a large platform on a flat pedal you can actually carry a heavier load including when climbing.
 

epzamora wrote:
Flats are nice when carrying a heavy load. Faster to put your foot down when carrying a heavy load, and when not, simplifies things quite a bit for some. The Race Face Chesters that @smoothmoose showed are fantastic. They grip so well, i have trouble moving my foot on the platform while riding and i swear, at times they seem to offer something even on the up swing.

Thank you @smoothmoose and @epzamora. You have both put in significant time and thought into your comments and it gives me lots to think about. I will look into both and get the logic behind your criticisms of upstroke Smoothmoose.

In the end I am deciding on one of these three options for cleats:
$60.99 AUD
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-pd-m530-spd-mtb-pedals-black.html

$138.99 AUD
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-xt-pd-m8120-deore-xt-trail-spd-pedals.html

$212.89 AUD
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-xtr-pd-m9120-trail-spd-mtb-pedals.html

Is there actually a build quality difference? Or just a bit chunkier and more aerodynamic. Seems ridiculous price differences for not much.

For shoes I'm tossing up:

$84.00
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-me100-spd-mtb-shoes-black.html

$139.99
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-me301-spd-mtb-shoes-black.html

Or if I can burn the money at $199.99 AUD and will go with my bike and helmet
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-me501-spd-mtb-shoes-black.html

Decisions decisions. 

The only other thing I hope to get one day:

https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem

Then I think I will be done on bike spending for at least a few years.

"Then I think I will be done on bike spending for at least a few years."




eric/fresno, ca.

@epzamora I think I would shortly thereafter be getting a divorce...

Do you feel you really need a "trail" pedal (the kind with cage)? You save weight by going without.

I think the 530 model (cheapest) is a painted pedal, not anodized. 

I bought my trail pedals thinking it would be great for when i wear regular shoes for a quick jaunt. I don't think i noticed much of a difference. They may be more for pedal protection from rock strikes. I do know i've read varying reviews on the success of the cage acting as a platform for shoes. all depends on the style and design.

Having both types, I really do think this is all you'd need. 
https://www.pushys.com.au/shimano-pd-m540-spd-pedals-black.html

if you stay away from the cheapest, you get a lighter weight pedal, slimmer stack height, and overall smaller package generally. Do note though medium to high range pedals often do not have flats for a pedal wrench. It's quite normal for good pedals to require a hex wrench into the end to remove or tighten.

eric/fresno, ca.

epzamora wrote:Do you feel you really need a "trail" pedal (the kind with cage)? You save weight by going without.

Your probably right I don't "need" a trail pedal. I just wanted a bit of a platform as I plan to do some cyclocross and am a bit of a clutz when clicking in at times. As they are so much cheaper and I could always spray the parts that show paint wear I will get the budget ones and the better shoes. I'm seeing everywhere that they are near indestructible.