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Most of the small operations seem to stand behind what they sell so no issue with the carbon stuff they offer. if your going to order the bike check out growler bikes, I’ve never been on a LaMere, but they have been at it for a while so I’m sure it’s a safe bet.
The issue is primarily with HED alloy fat bike wheels. If your not going to ride trails then they are a good option. The carbon HEDs are very light but you also need to really watch the pressure.
epzamora wrote:
Consider used. There are some great deals out there on Facebook fat bike-specific pages. These days there seem to be a ton of options.
eric/fresno, ca.
DerekJ_MI wrote:I'm on the east side of the State in Grosse Pointe. LBS of any quality include Tree Fort in Ypsi, Fraser Bike and a couple of Trek stores. Nothing special and their stock is very poor due to low demand over here. I don't have local trails to just go out on.
MIFAT wrote: ... If I were going to buy a new bike tomorrow my 1st choice would be the Tripple B from Quiring.
MIFAT wrote: Also stand-over is very important as you will get on and off allot if Trails are not groomed. No it’s not a carbon frame but you said buy once so that’s what I would do.Is there issues with carbon frames? I've had aluminum frame bikes brake!
MIFAT wrote:Spend your money on a set of wheels. You will end up with two sets eventually because of our weather youll get tired of swapping tires from studded to non studded.Now this is a true statement. I can see this clearly.
MIFAT wrote:I’m over in Grand Haven when I’m not working, and would be happy to let you ride My Borealis Flume size large or my wife’s Felt DD size small. ……. But on gravel roads the longer frame let’s me get lower. I don’t race and have not used a fatty in a gravel event but I’m sure I will soon enough, But I’ve got my Warbird that I spend most of my time on.Thanks for the offer but you're too far away from me. I have a Lynskey GR250 that is my go to gravel bike. With 650 wheels set I have it allows me to ride some fairly nasty roads. But this said I've also fallen several times with that 650 set up and I don't want to do that ever again. I finish off the year at Lowell then pick back up with Waterloo in the early spring. In between is what I'm looking to fill in.
MIFAT wrote:So.
Appropriate size frame with good standover and massive tire clearance. GX components, and spend every penny you have left on wheels. Get ahold of Mike at lacemine29 for everything you could ever want to know about fatbike wheel and tires combos. Skip the suspension fork and go carbon rigid.
MIFAT wrote:The difference between a Fat tire to just get out and ride and one you would like to take to iceman or a gravel event is all in the wheel and tire combo.I see some are making 29er wheels sets with hubs that fit on fat bikes. Get the most out of your bike.
look here. https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/
chas wrote:I just called KLM. They don't have much in stock due to there remodel project. Canyon looks OK but they are 26" wheels and they don't say how heavy the bike is. Something to check out though.
I did a fat bike demo day with KLM at Stoney. River Bends is groomed too. KLM will rent you a fat bike for a reasonable price (and discount it if you purchase).
Personally, I would get a Canyon Dude. That bike just sounds like a ball, and canyon makes great high end bikes.
https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/mountain-bike/a30363464/canyon-dude-review/
If you do get a Canyon, 02 (local) will give get you a 15% discount.
If you ask a question like this you'll get 50 suggestion from 30 responses.DerekJ_MI wrote:What is Q factor?There's lots of info on Q factor and why it's important. Here's some basic info.
NoCoGreg wrote:There's lots of info on Q factor and why it's important. Here's some basic info.Oh, I see. This makes sense. Thanks. Borealis is one of the bikes I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on. They seem to give good value for the money. But Growler is also not bad either. Tough choice.
https://rideissi.com/articles/stance-width-and-why-its-important
I've got a Borealis and am trying to learn snow biking. It's different and challenging...
Fat bikes are excellent for riding in river wash which has opened up lots of terrain I couldn't ride with a mountain bike let alone a gravel bike as the tires for both are simply too narrow and knife in.
Volsung wrote:
Have you done Iceman? Faster bikes are ridged – no suspension needed. Gravel bike works great if its dry. As I recall, the pros tend to be on ridged bikes.
“…Thanks for the offer but you're too far away from me. I have a Lynskey GR250 that is my go to gravel bike. “
I’ve been wanting to try those for a while. I may have to hit you up for a test ride.
Canyon: in that article, I think it was 26lbs. With fat tires? That is crazy light, for well under 3K.
FYI, the locals groom the trails, ‘cause riding a fat bike on the snow on ungroomed trails is a PITA unless the snow is pretty shallow. Groomed trails or snowmobile trails seem to work the best.
Studds: Well, riding MTB tires on studs works on gravel roads. The thing is – if there is snow that has been potmarked, driven on, or walked on – it’s a PITA on MTB tires. Just too dang rough. Fat tires allow you to ride on the really rough frozen stuff. But on the roads you and I ride on – typically they are fairly hard packed (and kinda nice when frozen) – its all the brine we put down around here. While I kinda hate studs (super heavy and slow), falling on ice hurts a lot. I’m fine on non studded tires when the temperatures stay below freezing, but when it is above freezing in the day, and below at night, ice can be a real problem that requires studs (sometimes I use a light e-bike with studded tires that kinda negates the drag of the studded tires).
The rail/trails around us pretty much require fat bikes if there is any snow or ice left on them as they get so heavily used. Those days where it is around 25 with no snow – they can be pretty firm and fast on a traditional gravel bike setup.
chas wrote:Have you done Iceman? Faster bikes are ridged – no suspension needed. Gravel bike works great if its dry. As I recall, the pros tend to be on ridged bikes.
chas wrote:
I’ve been wanting to try those for a while. I may have to hit you up for a test ride.
Canyon: in that article, I think it was 26lbs. With fat tires? That is crazy light, for well under 3K.
FYI, the locals groom the trails, ‘cause riding a fat bike on the snow on ungroomed trails is a PITA unless the snow is pretty shallow. Groomed trails or snowmobile trails seem to work the best.
Studds: Well, riding MTB tires on studs works on gravel roads. The thing is – if there is snow that has been potmarked, driven on, or walked on – it’s a PITA on MTB tires. Just too dang rough. Fat tires allow you to ride on the really rough frozen stuff. But on the roads you and I ride on – typically they are fairly hard packed (and kinda nice when frozen) – its all the brine we put down around here. While I kinda hate studs (super heavy and slow), falling on ice hurts a lot. I’m fine on non studded tires when the temperatures stay below freezing, but when it is above freezing in the day, and below at night, ice can be a real problem that requires studs (sometimes I use a light e-bike with studded tires that kinda negates the drag of the studded tires).
The rail/trails around us pretty much require fat bikes if there is any snow or ice left on them as they get so heavily used. Those days where it is around 25 with no snow – they can be pretty firm and fast on a traditional gravel bike setup.
DerekJ_MI wrote:
Yes I've done Iceman four times. The first time it was 65 degrees and sunny out. Was a wonderful day to ride in northern MI woods. The last three years it's been 35 and dropping, rain to snow, very wet sand, wet leaves everywhere the trail was slimy. I'm not a racer!! I ride to finish and finish only. This is all about fitness for me. I have a hard tail Specialized Stumpjumper that I've been using for the past four years. It has served me well but I'm thinking of moving on. Maybe a fatty with a suspension fork and a set of thinner 650b MB wheels? Then, if conditions merit it put on the fatty tires. One bike, many options. This is what I do with my Lynskey. I have three wheel sets for the bike. a 650 b set, a 700 x 25 road slicks and a 700 x whatever I need for gravel setup. Works really good.
I'm looking at a setup that fills in a hole. The hole is rides and events where the roads/trails are snowy, icy, frozen rutts, and everything that my current MB or Lynskey can't deal with very well.
I'm tired of falling! I don't want to fall anymore!! Two years ago I did the Waterloo ride. The day started out cold but then the sun came out and melted the snow. Many of the roads were rutted and frozen especially in the shade. the melting snow caused the top of the road to also melt. So there was a mix of water, slush, in frozen ruts. I fell. it hurt! IF there are not good options then I'll just save my money and not do those events. That's the easiest route, and least expensive too.